I just bought a new faucet kit to replace my leaky old one for my shower. Why are the fittings threaded?

Unlike my old faucet assembly where the copper pipe is just sweated on to the fixture, this new kit comes with female fittings that are threaded. Do I buy a threaded male coupling and sweat it on my copper line, then screw in the whole thing with teflon tape, or is there a better way that requires sweating and soldering? Forgive me if I didn't use the proper terms.
I just bought a new faucet kit to replace my leaky old one for my shower. Why are the fittings threaded?
answers are correct. But what they forgot to tell you is the way to put your fitting in properly and not to have a leak after your done!


1st buy 1/2 inch copper male adapters(5) and union fittings(3)and an elbow(1).


2nd sweat the male adapt on to a 4" piece of 1/2" L copper pipe (only 3 of them) these you can now put teflon tape on and screw into shower body.(3 o'clock position, 12 %26amp; 9 also) then cut old pipe back to match the connections.Use union fittings to connect them.


3rd make up your new tub spout connection with male adt to an elbow then with a male adt on end for spout.


Make sure you remove shower body contents before all of this so you don't melt the internal parts.Good luck!
I just bought a new faucet kit to replace my leaky old one for my shower. Why are the fittings threaded?
You are going to have to ask Home Depot to give you some "positive information" about what you should do. There are other hardware stores that can also give you positive input. I won't help you by my advice, this is why I am suggesting that you try other venues. Also, Home Depot has helped me when I gave them a call about "repair requirements." I wish you well.
Reply:I think what you have will work either way.You can use adapters with teflon tape and i also suggest adding pipe dope, or it may be possible to slip 1/2" copper directly into the valve and sweat it. Check your directions.
Reply:Sounds like, the existing valve is made with sweat fittings. So, I would assume your supply lines are copper. If you know how to sweat, then I would return your new valve, and get a valve that has "sweat fittings" and make the same type of connection. If the hot and cold pipes come in from the side, you should be able to unsweat them, and remove the lines from the valve, and replace with the new valve. Of course, you will have to check that the two lines will allow that. That the location is the same. If not, you may have to alter the existing waterlines to match up with the new valve.





Or, you can get threaded copper fittings, screw them into the valve, (seal with teflon tape), and sweat those fittings to the existing copper line. Good luck... and check for leaks before closing up the wall. If there is a leak, It may take an hour before a leak may appear, as all the air in the line would have to bleed out before you would see any water leaking....

flower